Orchids have a white coating of illness, so treat them.

Troyandi

Phalaenopsis owners often ask: what are the sticky dots on the leaves of the orchid, what can you do to remove them?

The problem arises not only from the loss of the natural appearance of the plants, but also from the fear of damage to the rosette, roots, and flower stalks.

If the reason is dry air, overflow or wasted direct sleepy changes, it is enough to change your mind and move the pot to a different place.

The sound, like a sticky speck that hangs from a leaf of the skin, signals the presence of pests: scale insects or mites.


Reasons for the appearance of speckles on phalaenopsis

First of all, you need to work, as the orchid has sticky leaves, to identify the cause of this phenomenon.

It is necessary to analyze the watering regime, carefully look at the skin sheet and outlet. Don’t get into the habit of checking the temperature in your indoor or home greenhouse. Important!


If you suspect a pest infestation, it is necessary to isolate the plant from other healthy specimens.


The main reasons for the formation of sticky specks:

  • Indoor orchids are favored by their attractive growths, so when small specks appear, you need to re-look after the pot, check the temperature and humidity of the area.
  • Untimely assistance can lead to the death of phalaenopsis, extinction of flowering plants, and rotten root.
  • Ways to combat illnesses and pests If sticky specks appear on the orchid, you need to immediately inspect the growth, check the soil for moisture or signs of overflow, remove the pot from changing the bright sun.), treat with drugs to treat the oil;
  • help fight the blight and mite of removing damaged leaves, toppings, replanting, washing the surface of the pot and the underside;
  • Home methods for fighting pests include using a sticky strip to remove flies, sprinkling with tincture of horsetail, mixed with an ointment, mixing medicinal alcohol with mild water;
  • Since there are not a lot of discounts on the quota, such preparations for sprinkling and watering as Fozalon, Phosfamid, Nurell-D, Promanal AF Neu, Bi 58 are suitable.

In order not to bring the orchids to the point of serious treatment, care must be taken before changes in temperature, watering, and fermentation.

It’s not good to place a potter on a lighted under-window, because there are no rules of observation and adaptation.

Prevention is of great importance, keeping an eye on the incidence of painful comas. Since sticky drops appeared immediately after watering once, it’s hard to bear in mind such a phenomenon. DESCRIPTION OF THE SHKIDNIK: Horny mealybug

- this is a small oval-shaped lump that reaches no more than 3.5-5 mm at the end, white, beige or horny with transverse grooves on the back, along the edges of its body covered with bristles and white

  • Boroshny liquor .

When they grow up, the female horned bugs are practically indestructible and create white on themselves, like cotton wool and wax, which is what we get from infected plants. Once they are lifted, the mosquitoes themselves and their eggs will be visible from below. Several varieties of the horned worm feel like a rough saw, similar to powder.

The following types of horned bugs are most often found on orchids:

  • CITRUS Mealybug (Pseudococcus longispinus):

The female is an oval-shaped cat, dark brown to orange in color, covered with a white borer, with long hairs on the back that can be seen as whiskers, body size from 3 to 5 mm.

This type of borer scale also sees a lot of honeydew.

The ideal temperature is 25-27 ° C; for such mosquitoes, mosquitoes lay the largest number of eggs and the development stages of larvae are at their best.

The human individual is a mosquito that flies, behind its external appearance it is in between a fly and a snowstorm, the wings of the sky, the barred body greyish, and often a furry coating is clearly visible on it. Although unimportant at all times, horned worms are the closest relatives of scale insects. There is no stench on the shield, but you will feel something that protects against external influx (sun, drying, chemical drugs) with wax, which is vibrated with special deposits.

Among the horned worms of any species, it is important to identify only female individuals dating back to parthenogenesis.

This type of reproduction is called “innocent”, that is.

Bored worms soak up the juices of the weeds and at the same time insist on their powerful functions, which weaken the orchids, increase their growth and cause the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Pershe, which flows into the forests of the mountains - this Sticky drops , marked both on the outside and on the inside of the leaf, as well as BILIY COTTON LOAD

.

With strong stress, deformation of the flowers and buds is possible. It is not uncommon for the leaves of a damaged orchid to develop a marmur stain, and against the background of green leaves, yellow or red (sometimes wet) spots appear. REASONS FOR BLAME:

The reasons for the culprit of horned scale insects lying in suboptimal minds of maturing orchids.

Shkidniki practically do not attack healthy growths, because the stench vibrates dry bodies that cause comas.

The very lassy little thing is not weakened OVERFEEDED WITH NITROGEN

orchid, the correct exchange of words for any reason for damage. The winter period is especially unsafe for this plan, and after a short, bright day and a necessary dry air, the batteries of the plants begin to notice new changes, which creates ideal conditions for the rapid reproduction of the poor. PREVENTION:

As a rule, in a collection of orchids, borer worms are consumed by new growths, so it is necessary to carefully look at all potential candidates for registration in your apartment, and if there is a stench, I would like to suspect a loser, it’s better to get tired of shopping.

The same goes up to the heights that stand in close proximity to your potential new fellow, since young (still poorly visible) individuals could have already moved on to the new one.

It’s easy to finish the borer worm, but it’s also possible. Before we kill the orchid, we need to know more about it IZOLYUVATI

from other heights, to avoid the widening of the swindler far away. I would be particularly grateful to the trees that were near the sick woman. If there are no visible traces of damage on them (white wool, sticky ones can be seen), then during the coming month they can easily appear, and so that it is possible to recognize earlier what happened, it is necessary once a week, a careful look around .

  • Another, even more important method in the fight against borer worms is mechanical
  • CLEANING

The favorite place of the settlement of coma is the sap of young tissue of growths - young leaves, new shoots, flower stalks, flowers, buds and the heart of the growth. Here it is necessary to work behind the furnishings and the stage of obstruction, so for example, flowers, buds and flower stalks are best cut out and thrown out, and the leaves can simply be wiped with a cotton swab, burying the waste and the cotton wool from itself. Pseudobulbs of various types of orchids (for example, Cattleya) are covered with dry buds, which is a favorite place for the settlement of young individuals.

It is much more difficult to deal with new seedlings and cores of orchids, as they are strategically important organs of growths, and, unfortunately, it is not possible to just kill them.

Working with them becomes even more difficult because most of the poor people have been sitting in them, because what is most delicious for them there.

In the core of a monopodial orchid, it is best not to climb and pick up the largest comas with tweezers, and the core of a new pair of synpodial orchids can be peeled three times by removing a small piece of the top in the area of ​​the tightly burned leaf. The leaves of the new shoots are burnt to dry deeply and the mosquitoes themselves rarely have the opportunity to get deep into the middle, so removing 1 cm from the top will be completely enough. It’s important not to damage the orchids themselves, only a little seals their original appearance, so that the seedlings then grow from the cut leaves, then it will help to avoid a repeat epidemic, especially in , as there are concentrated clutches of eggs.

Extensive monitoring of bristle-haired borerbugs has shown that this type of coma thrives on very cold temperatures and low humidity, so it becomes hot and the humidity increases, and the smell itself nestle on the surface of the leaf and raise its tendrils uphill. This feature can greatly help you in the event of coma. Some representatives of horned worms will settle on the roots of orchids, so if you want one mature individual on a windy root or in an unsafe vicinity to the substrate, it is necessary to transplant the plant, first bre cleared її root system and having been treated with a weak insecticide.

In the growing forests there are females of horned scale insects and their offspring, as well as

After mechanical cleaning, it will be necessary to harvest the plants WITH LIQUID DRUGS Let's try to get rid of the mischief-maker using people's methods.

NARODNI ZASOBI:

  • Horsetail tincture: Horsetail is sold in pharmacies and is widely used as a sechoginous remedy, as a remedy for blood cleansing, etc.
  • The German name is Schachtelhalmtee. For 1 liter of water it costs 100 UAH. dry horsetail. Pour dill over the horsetail, cool to room temperature and sprinkle with the sprouts.
  • OIL: Mix 1 liter of water with 2 tablespoons
  • olive oil , and then apply the emulsion to the orchid (preferably sprinkled).

This concentration of oil is not practically safe for all types of orchids.

ALCOHOL ROSCHIN WITH MIL: You can successfully treat yourself with the following mixture, which consists of 15 grams of rare mil, 10 ml of denatured alcohol (Brenspiritus) and 1 liter of warm water. However, here we need to be more respectful, especially the value of soft-leaved and thin-leaved orchids. These people are very sensitive to alcohol, so don’t sprinkle the orchid with it, but apply it on the lumps with a pencil. If you really want to test this method itself, then it’s best to conduct a small sensitivity test on one arm right away. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE CHARTER: Take 4-5 chasnik chasnik per 0.5 liters of water. The water must be brought to a boil, the teapot must be cut into pieces and consumed. Then the chameleon must be filled with dill and left for at least four years.

The solution is filtered and applied undiluted to the leaves. CHEMICALS: Chemical preparations based on

OIL , for example, paraffin, it is good to help in the fight against horned worms, but it is recommended to apply them only in the early stages of the plot, since the oil and bark mixture also sticks up the pores of the leaves, and if they are overgrown the surface is large, the plant might simply suffocate. The most popular drug of this group Promanal AF Neu

  • Malathion(Malathion - C 10 H 19 O 6 PS 2)
  • Diazinon(Diazinon - C 12 H 21 N 2 O 3 PS)
  • Dimethoat(Dimethoate - C 5 H 12 NO 3 PS 2)
  • Parathion(Parathion - C 10 H 14 NO 5 PS)

The best time for the use of chemical drugs is the period when young animals that have hatched are deprived of their mother's womb or egg sac.

The stench is not yet covered with dry wax and even filled with chemicals.

The difficulty of fighting this pest lies in the fact that at the same time in the forest, as a rule, a small generation of comas peacefully grow, and the use of insecticide kills only young individuals, so a one-time treatment will not do.

In connection with this, for the complete reduction of all diseases without guilt, it will be necessary to use medicinal drugs at least 3-4 times every 10-14 days, immediately killing the individuals that have been born. REMEMBER that the higher the stage of development of larvae, the easier it is to fight it. BIOLOGICAL FEATURES:


Next to all types of horny worms are the dangerous cryptolemus larvae (Cryptolaemus montrouzieri), the larvae of the gummy fly (Episyrphus balteatus) and the larvae of goldeneye (Chrysoperla carnea).
However, the stagnation of the remaining conditions is complicated by the fact that the stench cannot reach the individuals sitting on the butterflies.
The insects Leptomastix dactylopii and Leptomastidea abnormis specialize on the citrus borer worm, and the most important enemy of the small population of the bristly horned worm is Anagyrus fusciventris.
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my Orchid is covered with white spots and specks similar to dew, and upon closer inspection you can see the fluttering bugs white color . I washed my guts with mile water, but the stinks were swirling.

How can I get rid of them?

Chervetsi - it’s worth it expansions of the Orchids.

At first glance, the stench looks like white fluffy butter on a leaf.

Ale, if you take a closer look, you will see a wingless mosquito. It seems that the stinks appear from the beginning and quickly spread throughout the entire region, or in a number of regions. Bored worms have matured

Zazvichay

stinks linger in the folds under the leaves Therefore, if you soaked the white background or they are on the sheet, swidden for everything, the infection will be stronger. A look from below under the leaves usually reveals little breasts or specks that look like powder.

Yak pozbutisya The problem of borer worms needs to be eliminated and the Orchid should begin to be cured as soon as possible. Even though more than an hour passes,

It’s more important for us to remove this illness . The stench can become active and can easily infect living plants.

Therefore, we first isolate the flower and carefully keep an eye on the surrounding plants.

Croc, which can help streamline the infection. remove adult comas and sticky residue with a cotton swab soaked in medicinal alcohol.

Pay special attention to the folds of the growth: bugs hide there.

After this, sprinkle the rosemary with alcohol, mixed in equal proportions with water, using a spray bottle.

Perform the entire hair removal procedure - This will help you fight the hrobak. If after 2-3 soaking procedures the situation did not improve and the growth did not begin to wilt, it is necessary to go to chemical solutions.


The safest choice for combating worms is Nim oil.

Vono choke the coma. For smut, use other insecticides according to the instructions. As the infection did not go away, it became only worse, for example, a sticky coating covered all the growth.

It is possible that for a professional it is not at all difficult to identify the borer worm in his own bushes, but most amateur gardeners note that it is not a problem if the budworm is already extensively infested with this pest. Bored worm is a frequent guest on in room apartments

. This is a different species of plant and can significantly reduce the growth rate and cause death. There are no species of bobwhite worms,

room rooms You can attack citrus, seaside, grape and bristly boar-haired worms.

Indoor plants such as:

: all types of citrus fruits, bromeliads, cycads, succulents, cacti, adiantums, roseworts, aglaonemas, ferns, asparagus, monstera, hoya, peperomia, anthurium, ardisia, brunfelsia, bougainvillea, , ), fatsia, chlorophytum, rhododendron, cyperus, cisus , amarylis, hippeastrum, orchid, azalea.

Reasons for the appearance of borer worms in indoor apartments

It is impossible to name the main reason for the appearance of the borer worm. These defects appear to be the result of complex destruction instead of care for the growth: lower temperatures, over-fertilization of the soil, elimination of contaminated soil, neglect of hygienic procedures and removal of dead plots. Among the characteristic signs of presence of borer worms (the lumpy, white, fluffy breasts) infection can be signaled by yellowed and dead leaves, including young ones, a gap in growth, the appearance of young deformed leaves, flax, oppressive type of growth.

Fighting the horned worm The fight against the borer worm begins with the repeated and careful removal of weeds. It is necessary to replace the soil and inspect the root system and cibulin. (worms may still be there), you need to thoroughly rinse the weeds, and then carefully examine them under a magnifying glass and a cotton swab or a small brush to remove the worm larvae.:

Remember that eggs are safely kept out of the water and simply washing with water will not bring the same result.

It is also necessary to remove old, dry and most spoiled plant plots.
Root and cibulini can be damaged by the borer worm - infected plots can be seen or destroyed.
- non-systemic organophosphorus insectoacaricide KKD “Aktellik”;
- insecticide, chitin synthesis inhibitor "Apploud";
- Insecticide KKD "Bankol";
- Systemic insecticide KKD “Biotlin”;
- non-systemic biologically active insectoacaricide KKD “Vertimek”;
- Insecticide KKD “Iskra “Podviyny effect”;
- Systemic insecticide of the chloronicotinyl class KKD “Calypso”;
- Systemic insecticide of the chloronicotinyl class KKD “Commander”;
- Systemic insecticide of the chloronicotinyl class KKD “Confidant”;
- Systemic insecticide KKD “Confidor Extra”;
- Systemic broad-spectrum insecticide KKD “Mospilan”;
- broad-spectrum insecticide with systemic efficiency “Tanrek”;
- Biological insectoacaricide KKD “Fitoverm”.

The plants are covered with a layer of dust, sealed with chemicals, ducts in the soil and placed in a greenhouse (under the bag) for several days.

After 7-10 days, re-process. The damage caused by the borer worm was detected at an early stage, and after an hour of inspection of the trees, no large-scale increase in pests or serious damage was revealed. room apartment , That You can use folk methods to combat the borer borer . For example, sprinkling with green honey (15g per 1 liter of water, three times every 7-10 days), sprinkling with alcohol, sprinkling with pharmaceutical calendula, sprinkling with Tyutun or chasnikov infusion.

After stagnation